Buying Afghani rugs in Peshawar is an interesting and
challenging event. At the heart of the northern frontier province's old bazaar
you will find old and rundown buildings, with many small shops occupying the
same rambling building. These are full of old and new Afghani rugs and kilims,
saddle bags and hand made textiles.
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| Peshawar Bazaar |
On occasion you are shown an antique and
unrestored piece, with a very high asking price. These are kept in old wooden
boxes, and are presented with understandable pride. Despite the high prices,
these unique and irreplaceable pieces, often remnants of a dying art, are very
difficult for dealers to resist.
One of highlights of days and nights
searching in shops and buildings in the narrow crowded streets of Peshawar
bazaar is going to kebab houses. Here beautifully marinated meat is cooked on
open charcoal grills right in front of their cafe on the footpath.
A merchant
hosted a lunch for us at one such cafe and it was refreshing and relaxing to
take a break from dusty carpet shops and the endless discussion
about rugs and prices. We sat on old wooden beds, which were covered with old
rugs, with a Sofreh in front of us. In this cozy setting we enjoyed salty
yoghurt drink, fresh naan just out of
the Tandoor, and hot tender kebabs.
Peshawar is a main centre for Afghani
merchants and trade. Here, amongst all the violence and destruction of
contemporary Pakistan, trucks weave their way, loaded with handicrafts and
carpets of all colours and description. These are the handwork of people
committed to the culture and art of their people, in challenging and sometimes
terrifying circumstances.
October 2010
